Hey everyone - I registered to post some info on how to make a decent Kryoflux enclosure without soldering, CNC machining, 3D printing (by yourself), welding, or having access to a machine shop. It can actually be done! What's more, it can be done using off-the-shelf parts you can buy through ordinary means - no special connections or lucky junkyard finds required.
First off, a few pics:
Next: the Bill Of Materials:
Kryoflux board holder
I used this 3D-printed case from COREi64:
There are a few other options out there as well. Be aware that the COREi64 one requires a tiny hex driver to open, which they also sell if you don't have one.
2-bay case plus power supply:
I used the iStarUSA S-2B-ATL-JB: http://www.istarusa.com/istarusa/produc ... -2B-ATL-JB
(This also comes in larger multi-bay versions, but since our Kryoflux maxes out at 2 devices...)
General buyer's note, if you go with another case - beware of more "hi-tech" enclosures designed for modern SCSI devices - these may refuse to power your drives altogether.
AC Power cable
The usual 3-prong power cable used to power desktop computers and such. These can be bought anywhere.
Choose your own!
Available from the Kryoflux store (http://webstore.kryoflux.com/catalog/) or Ebay or wherever.
Floppy drive cable
The ordinary kind. Comes with the Advanced Kryoflux package if you need one.
Also the ordinary kind. I picked up a bag of StarTech screws that worked fine:
One is required. Get it with the Advanced Kryoflux package or buy your own from anywhere.
OPTIONAL - Floppy power cables
The case comes with one MOLEX and one BERG connector (as well as a whole bunch of others not relevant to our needs) If you need some other combination, you might need adaptors. Some of these come with the Advanced Kryoflux package.
OPTIONAL - 3.5" mounting brackets
If you're using 3.5" drives you'll need mounting brackets for them. I used the iStarUSA RP-3HDD2535E, but there are many other options available on the market as well.
OPTIONAL - Panel mounting kit for USB-B cable
This requires tools - see below.
I used the StarTech USBPNLBFBM1
Information and engineering diagrams available here.
Once the parts are gathered, installation is pretty simple - set up your Kryoflux board's jumpers, mount it inside its holder, put the drives into the case, and hook up the power and data cables (remembering NOT to plug power into the Kryoflux board - the USB connection will power it)
The only tricky part (which violates the spirit of this project somewhat) is installing the panel-mounted USB port. Since the case doesn't have a pre-made hole of the proper size, you'll have to drill one out yourself. The way I did it with minimal tools was:
- Using the diagrams provided by the manufacturer, print out a life-size template of the port and screw holes.
- Use an Xacto knife to cut out the parts corresponding to holes you'll drill
- Remove the back panel from the case and stencil the holes onto the panel using a Sharpie marker.
- Use a drill to drill out everywhere that's painted black (as much as possible), then use a file to clean up the edges and get the parts that can't be reached with a drill, such as corners.
- Then screw the panel-mounted port onto the back panel, put it back into the case, and attach the other end of the cable to the Kryoflux board.
For non-tool-users, you can also just pop out one of the large panels from the back, and feed your ordinary USB cable directly through to the Kryoflux board. This, however, has the disadvantage that if you pull on the cable too hard it can pull loose from the Kryoflux's socket, forcing you to open up the enclosure again to plug it back in.
Hope this helps - good luck, everyone!
Show us your setup and show us where the units are being used.
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