How do I properly save Classic Mac floppies?

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Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:09 pm

Re: How do I properly save Classic Mac floppies?

Post by ZrX »

Have to look at the new dump later, but for the Epson drive jumpers:


6-7: drive 0
7-8: drive 1 (usually the default to use)

F-G: high density (not sure if the density select jumper completely overrides the software config)
G-H: low density

According to online info jumpers B-C and D-E should also be set, so moving that jumper from F-G to D-E might be preferred.
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Re: How do I properly save Classic Mac floppies?

Post by horse_dreams »

Thanks for the jumper info ZrX. Interestingly enough, the letters under the jumper pins go like this:

Code: Select all

That's exactly how they're written on the board.

Another really interesting bit is that the sticker on the top says "EPSON SMD-300", but a small, hard to read sticker on the back in a dot matrix font says "SMD340-101-06". I wonder if the two are really really similar.

I moved the jumper from F-G to D-E like you said and it looks like it gave much better results that time when imaging the shareware disk. I first had it output to a 400K/800K Apple DOS image and it worked beautifully the whole time. It did trip up on some sectors in the 6x range, but one or two retries later got them to copy over okay. I'm assuming the sectors back there are starting to show their age on the disk, so I don't think the drives are at fault for that. I even compared the SHA-256 hashes between that image and the image I created earlier using the Teac FD-235HF and both matched each other.

"KryoFlux stream files, preservation" dump of the shareware disk, using default GUI settings:!m6ImyYQJ!J0_Acpx0uqwD ... OQThCemj20

By the way my Samsung drive arrived today (maxtrack=83). Gave it a go in the KryoFlux (400K/800K Apple DOS, default GUI settings) with the shareware disk and thankfully it passed track 48 on side 0 without tripping up once. As it got near the end, I'd say about track 65 or 66, it did find some bad sectors it could not recover. I ended the copy short, again, and tried out a 1440K disk I had imaged earlier on the Sony drive; Links Championship Course - Firestone Country Club Championship Course - Disk 1. Saving it to an MFM image using the GUI with all default settings, it imaged the whole thing without complaining once. Comparing the SHA-256 hashes between the Sony and Samsung MFM images resulted in a match.

Here's the raw stream (not format guided, all default GUI settings) from that 1440K disk on both the Sony and Samsung:!37BQXC7b!Jh0Qo_RScwJf ... a5vSuSFQ_0

And I switched the -dd flag between 0 and 1 in the GUI using both the Sony MPF920 and the Panasonic JU-256A216P and it sadly didn't make a difference. They both still tripped up at track 48.

Other than the missing disk information text file and disk scan, would you guys say that these would be considered good KryoFlux preservation quality copies? Out of all the dumps, which would you guys say was the best quality?

Hopefully I didn't forget anything in this post.
Posts: 635
Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:09 pm

Re: How do I properly save Classic Mac floppies?

Post by ZrX »

Finally took a look at the new dumps.

Both Teac and Epson read those Mac disks quite nicely. Epson slightly better than Teac so Epson would be the preferred drive to dump Macintosh DD disks, tho Teac might have either some dirt in the heads or slight misalignment.

And as expected the HD dumps made with Samsung and Sony are good.

So with the infofile and disk photo you should be good to go.
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